Buying the right suit can be challenging even if you have a good understanding of fit and fabric—and then there’s sustainability to think about, too. Here, we explain the most important aspects of suit shopping and the key ethical questions to ask when you’re doing so.
Why choose a more sustainable suit?
A good suit can stay in your wardrobe for decades—when altered as needed, cared for correctly, and stored well, that is. And in fact, this was the case before fast fashion changed the industry as we know it. Suiting was an investment, but now, like so many other categories of clothing, it has become so cheap to mass produce that many consumers no longer approach it as the considered, lifetime purchase it once was.
But it’s hard to miss the signs of a poorly made fast fashion suit—the way the fabric falls; minimal details to lower production costs; rigid shoulder pads; poorly aligned seams and patterns; the sheen of cheap synthetic materials; we could go on. Not to mention that the quality of manufacturing is likely to be so low that the suit won’t last past a few seasons.
And then there are the hidden issues with a fast fashion suit—the oft-exploited garment workers who made it, the fossil fuels used to create the materials it’s cut from, and the animals that might’ve suffered to make those horn buttons, to name a few.
So, how do you buy a suit that fits and feels great—and doesn’t come at the cost of the environment and the people who made it? Read on to find out.
Which suit should you buy?
The first thing you’ll need to decide on is the style of suit that makes the best investment. The situations and places you’ll be wearing a suit will dictate this because if it’s for occasional wear to, say, job interviews, a single-breasted one (with a single column of buttons) will do fine. But if you’ve got a summer of weddings to attend, an unlined double-breasted (two sets of buttons) iteration is just the ticket for keeping cool and making a style statement, while black tie events require the more formal tuxedo.
If you’re only going to have one suit, make it a two-buttoned single-breasted one since it’s the most adaptable to a variety of events, is less susceptible to changing trends, and you’ll be able to wear it long into the future.
What are the best, more sustainable fabrics for suits?
Two of the most important factors for a suit that’ll last a lifetime are fit and fabric, says Nathalie Neuilly, founder of Dressarte, a “Good”-rated custom suitmaker based in Paris. “Fabric quality is key. It’s vital for fabrics to be breathable, durable, and drape well.”
Traditional tailoring has long relied on wool and cotton, but both have complex sustainability challenges. The wool industry can be cruel. Cotton is notoriously water and energy-intensive to produce. So look for suits made from certified organic or GOTS certified cotton. And if you’re keen to go for wool, opt for recycled materials that are certified by the likes of the Global Recycled Standard or wool produced by Responsible Wool Standard-accredited suppliers.
Organic linen is a brilliant option for suits, since it is one of the lowest-impact materials and can easily biodegrade (as long as it hasn’t been treated with chemicals). The fabric is most commonly used for summer suits thanks to its breathability, but a fully lined one can be warm enough for winter, too. Granted, linen does wrinkle easily, and the best thing to do is embrace the look, which Neuilly describes as a “stylish, lived-in texture.”
Elsewhere, TENCEL Lyocell is a growing choice for suits—particularly in the ready-to-wear and womenswear categories. TENCEL Lyocell is naturally quite crinkle-resistant, avoiding the harmful chemical treatments applied to some fabrics to prevent creasing.
Which suit materials are best avoided?
Many fast fashion suits are made from synthetic materials like polyester, acrylic, and nylon. And while these materials might boast durability as a key benefit, they’re also derived from fossil fuels—a key driver of climate change—and emit more greenhouse gases in their production than natural fibres. These materials won’t easily decompose once you’re finished with them, either. A polyester suit might still be hanging around in a landfill hundreds of years after the person discarded it. And it’s not just the sustainability impact of these fabrics that makes them undesirable: “At Dressarte, we avoid polyester and blended synthetics as they are less breathable and can feel hot and uncomfortable,” says Neuilly.
Blended fabrics are also popular for suiting these days—that’s when fibres are mixed to combine the characteristics of both. Polyester is often blended with wool—and sometimes cashmere—for suit fabrics, and while retailers might tout better drape and durability in such a mix, blended fabrics are notoriously difficult to recycle. And since they’re still made using petroleum-based synthetics they won’t break down, not to mention the animal welfare implications of wool and cashmere.
Polyester and blended synthetics are less breathable and can feel hot and uncomfortable.
Nathalie Neuilly – founder, Dressarte
Keep an eye out for fabrics with wrinkle-resistant coatings, too, since the most common ones contain the chemical dimethylol dihydroxy ethylene urea (DMDHEU), which has been found to release formaldehyde and could harm the environment.
How to buy a suit that fits
“A well-fitting suit enhances your silhouette, comfort, and confidence,” Neuilly says. A good fit is also key to keeping it in your wardrobe for the long haul. Here are a few things to look out for when you’re shopping:
- Unless you’re after an oversized look, make sure the shoulders of your jacket don’t extend past the top of your arm. The armhole seam should sit at the edge of your shoulder.
- When the jacket is buttoned up, it shouldn’t pull or gape across your chest.
- “The jacket collar should sit flat against the back of your neck, with no gaps or folds,” Neuilly adds.
- Jacket sleeves should finish just below your wrist bone.
- Trouser fit is more subjective since it depends on the silhouette, but the key is ensuring that the waistband fits comfortably and is not tight when you’re standing.
Pay attention to the details
Attention to detail is a marker of quality in suiting, especially because fast fashion designs tend to cut corners and minimise details to reduce production costs. But there are a few sustainability issues to consider.
First, find out what the buttons are made from—in traditional tailoring they’re created from animal horn or mother-of-pearl, which both raise animal welfare and ethical concerns. Plastic, too, is a popular yet unsustainable choice. Corozo buttons, which are derived from nuts, are increasingly common in tailoring and considered a lower impact choice than animal or plastic ones.
Garment linings are another place you’ll find synthetic materials, particularly acetate, since it’s cheaper to buy than the likes of cotton or silk which were traditionally used as linings. Opt for ethical silk, organic cotton, or cupro-lined garments if possible.
Finally, you’ll want to have a close look at the stitching quality to ensure the suit will stay well-constructed for its lifetime. Nueilly advises to “look for neatly finished seams, hand-stitched lapels, and reinforced buttonholes as markers of quality tailoring.”
Altering your suit
Unless you’ve bought a made-to-measure or bespoke suit, making a few fit adjustments is often needed to ensure it fits to your exact size—and many tweaks are easy to do.
Most seamsters and tailors will be able to easily adjust the cuffs of a jacket, for instance, and trousers on some suits come with unfinished hems to allow you to take them up to your height. Some manufacturers will also leave a touch of extra fabric in the side seams should you ever need to size up slightly.
