The fabric commonly labelled as “Tencel” is increasingly a fabric of choice for ethical and conscious clothing brands. It’s light and versatile, and is widely used in casual wear. But what is Tencel? We’ve put together a cheatsheet to help demystify this fabric and put the power back in your hands.
What is Tencel?
TENCEL® is actually a brand name owned by the Austrian company Lenzing AG. They use it for a type of lyocell fabric, and – confusingly – also for their modal material. The material brands market as “Tencel” is usually Tencel lyocell.
How is Tencel made?
Tencel is a cellulose fibre, which is made by dissolving wood pulp and using a special drying process called spinning. Before it is dried, wood chips are mixed with a solvent to produce a wet mixture. The mixture is then pushed through small holes to form threads, which is then chemically treated and the lengths of fibre are spun into yarn and woven into cloth.
According to Lenzing AG, Tencel has incredible absorption characteristics and is 50% more absorbent than cotton. Because they’re more breathable and less susceptible to odorous bacteria growth, these fabrics are perfect for a sweaty gym or bikram yoga session, making them ideal for activewear.
How does Tencel impact the environment?
As is the case with most textiles, Tencel production has both positive and negative impacts on the environment. Like cotton and bamboo, Tencel is made from plant materials. However manufacturing Tencel requires less energy and water than cotton. As a naturally derived fibre, Tencel is also biodegradable.
Lenzing says it sources its wood and pulp from certified and controlled sources like sustainably managed plantations.
The solvents used to turn the wood pulp into fibre use the chemical N-Methylmorpholine N-oxide. However lyocell’s closed loop production process means that the solvent is recycled time and time again to produce new fibres and minimise harmful waste. Lenzing Group says the solvent recovery rate is 99%.
Although it is mixed with conventional dyes, which can be harmful to the environment, lyocell requires a lot less dye than cotton.
Once environmental concern with Tencel fabric is the use of energy during the production process. This is something that Lenzing AG have acknowledged and are working to address by increasing their use of renewable energy sources.
Other sources of lyocell
Lyocell fabric is also manufactured by a company called Birla, under the name Excel. In 2017, the Rainforest Alliance assessed Birla as being of low risk of sourcing its products from ancient or endangered forests, or other controversial sources
A great option for active bodies
Tencel is a great alternative to synthetic activewear. It’s breathable, absorbs moisture and is soft on the skin. While it is pricier than your average workout tank top, something we always try to prioritise at Good On You is quality over quantity. If exercising is part of your daily routine, it’s worth investing in quality and durable garments that are good for your skin, such as those made from Tencel. If you look good, feel good and do good for the environment, nothing can stop you from achieving your personal best!
Here are some ‘Good’ rated brands that use Tencel: