PVC is one of the world’s most used plastics since it can take so many forms. But PVC is one of the worst materials for sustainability: it is derived from chlorine and fossil fuels, and it doesn’t biodegrade. Here, we explain what PVC is and what the alternatives are.
Plastic in your wardrobe
PVC. It’s that hard plastic piping you can see under your kitchen sink, right? What’s it got to do with sustainable fashion?
The first thing to know about PVC, or polyvinyl chloride, is that it’s everywhere: in and around our homes, cars, and wardrobes. It’s one of the world’s most used plastics, and can be manufactured as a hard material or a flexible fabric, sometimes known as Vinyon in the US. You’ll most likely find it in a faux leather coat. But given that it’s a type of plastic, how sustainable is PVC for your wardrobe? Let’s break it down.
What is PVC, and how is it made?
PVC is made by combining chlorine, and ethylene (derived from oil or gas) to create a compound called Vinyl Chloride Monomer, or VCM. The VCM then undergoes a process called polymerisation, which results in a base PVC resin. The base PVC looks like a white powder or pellet, which is then ready for additives that transform the material into its desired shape and texture, ie underground pipe, window frames, pencil cases, or clothing.
Transforming base PVC into clothing requires plasticisers, usually phthalates, which are clear, oily liquids that help the plastic go soft and flexible enough to simulate a textile.
Quite simply, PVC is a petrochemical product that is heavily processed from start to finish and can take many forms. Vinyon, as the textile derivative of PVC, is popular for its weather-resistant qualities in coats, jackets, skiing equipment, artificial leathers, or fetish fashion.
So what are the environmental and ethical costs?
Whether you’re a savvy conscious shopper or new to the movement, you likely have an inkling that any material made with petrochemicals is generally an unsustainable choice. You’d likely find PVC or Vinyon at the lowest tier of any materials index if they get a mention at all. Greenpeace describes is as “the single most environmentally damaging of all plastics.”
PVC requires oil to extract the base components and lots of energy to react the chemicals together. That means it’s hugely reliant on fossil fuels—which we as a society are desperately trying to turn our backs on. Then there are the issues associated phthalates: they’re linked to hormone disruption and reproductive issues in humans, and have the potential to bioaccumulate in small aquatic animals when released into waterways through product use or by manufacturing facilities.
And while the use of PVC and other synthetic leather alternatives prevents direct harm to animals, wildlife is harmed further down in the process by the steady accumulation of this non-biodegradable material in the world’s ecosystems.
The bottom line is, for a more sustainable and ethical wardrobe, avoid PVC.
What are the alternatives to PVC?
Recycled polyurethane (PU)
While similar to PVC in composition, PU is less harmful in production since it doesn’t release toxic substances and dioxins during use or disposal. But while it is technically a better option than PVC, PU is far from perfect. It can be made from recycled sources, which assists with waste reduction and making use of already available resources, so it can be considered an alternative to PVC if there is no better option, and ideally only for garments that don’t require much laundering, to mitigate microplastic release. Ultimately, though, PU is still plastic, and we don’t recommend it as a lower impact material.
Natural rubber or latex
Believe it or not, natural rubber or latex (as opposed to synthetic rubber) used to be the go-to material before PVC came along. Natural rubber comes from trees found mainly in parts of South America, Africa, and South East Asia. Rubber trees are “tapped” to extract the milky-white latex fluid and left to repair over a period of months or years. Natural rubber is free from the chemical load of PVC and performs just as well, especially for water-resistant applications. Be aware that natural rubber can be linked to deforestation, so look for products that uphold responsible production processes.
MIRUM
MIRUM is an exciting new material on the market. MIRUM is completely plastic-free and certified as 100% bio-content through the USDA bio-preferred program, it is made from a combination of plants and minerals. The resulting material is adaptable and suitable for use in footwear, fashion, automotive, accessories, upholstery, and more, and given investment and uptake from the industry, could be scaled as a non-plastic alternative to PVC.
Cork
It may come as a surprise to learn that cork is an alternative material increasing in popularity thanks to its leather-like properties. This sturdy and waterproof leather alternative is renewable, completely recyclable, and easy to keep looking good as new. Cork oak trees are harvested for their bark each decade, but the trees continue to live and grow, going on to produce more cork, so it’s a more sustainable option for people, the planet, and animals.
